Bloomers and method of making the same



May 17, 1927. 1,629,147

F. CHATFIELDI B LOOMERS AND METHOD OF MAKING. THE .SAME

Filed Oct; 8; 1924 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 [N vE/v TOR F/MNKL/N (TH/7 TF/ELD may; 17,197. MW? F. CHATFIELD BLOOMERS AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 8. 1924 s sheds-sheet 2 I N VEN TOR Ffifl/vKL N CH/YTFIELD May 17", 1.927.-

F. CH ATFIELD BLOOMERS AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 8. 1924 s Shets-Shei 3 Patented Mi, 17,1927.

im mxLm cmrrmnn, or mnaroms, mnmnso'm, ASSIGNOR 'ro 'rnn MUNSI'NG- WEAR comonanon', or MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA, A CORPORATION 01 MINNE- BLOCKED/g AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed, October a, 1924. Serial no. 742,427.

The object of my invention is to provide a womans undergarment of the bloomer.

' type in which the maximum of economy may be effected in the employment of material 5 used in making the garment; second, the

cut of theg'arment allows for'extreme simplicitv in the formation of seams and hence in the amount of sewing required; third,-

the sewing provides'for an extremely simple lmanner of reinforcing the garment at the point where subjected to the greatest strain; fourth, the garment is marked by simplicity in the gore construction, (that is, gores may be'assembled before. being incorporated into 16 the garment), and by the length of the uprise or seat portion from the crotch point to the waistband; fifth, the garment is made with all seams straight making it less diflicult in the matter of production; sixth, the 50 1e sections and ,the gores are all cut from a knit tubing without waste of material.

Other objects of the invention will appear from the following'detailed description.

The invention consists generally in the 26 construction and arrangement of the ores interposed between the leg sections 0 the garment all as hereinafter described. and particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings forming.

part of this specification,

Figure tie a view "of the garment inverted" with the leg portions separated showing'the relative position of the gores;

Figure 2 is a front view illustrating the garment with the wearer in a squatting position;

Figure 3 is a rearview of the garment in use with the wearer in a stoo ing position; Figure 4 is a side view 0 the garment to in use showin the wearer with one leg elevated and illustrating the smooth ap- V gore 5 and the le gores 6. The center or re 5 is a view of a section of tubing,

peg rance of the garment in this position,

1 showing in dotted lines the manner of cut 5 ting the leg sections therefrom without waste; i

Fi re 6 is a. view'of the leg sections as cut om the tube in Figure 5, but turned at ri ht an les with reference thereto so as to in icate by the-dotted line how the tube section is severed to provide the two leg sections;

Figure? is a view of asection of tubing from which the crotch or center gore is cut;

Figure 8 is a view of a similar section I tubing as indicated by the dotted lines in Figure'l; By referring to the above figure,

' larly. for use in garments of standard size,

of tubing from which the leg gores are formed;

Figure 9 illustrates the relative arrangement of the crotch and leg gores for a standard garment;

Figure 10 shows a similar arrangement of the gores in a garment adapted for a stout person.

In the drawings, 2 and 3 represent the leg sections of the garment. These sections are preferably obtained by taking a piece of knit tubing and severing it along transverse lines A and B, .,(see Figure 5), to form tubular sections C. These sections determine the length of the garment when completed as shown in Figure 1. The line A is cut on a slight diagonal, as shown, in order to provide a better fitting rment at the waist line.. Each section after' it has been cut from the tubing, is turned at right angles from the position in which it is cut,

and is flattened as shown in Figure 6. It is then lon itudinally severed along the dotted line D,'t ereby forming the two leg sections 2 and 3. By referring to this figure, it will be noted that by cutting the upper ends of the leg sections on a diagonal, as indicated at A, the front top edge of the section C, after having been turned and positioned as shown in Figure 6, will be relatively lower then the back edge thereof, as indicated at 4. Thus, when the two leg sections2 and 3 are'assembled in the garment the waist line of the garment will; be lower' at the front than it is at the back, thereby providing a tilt better-fitting garment around the waist line.

An important feature of this invention I resides in the gore construction of the gar crotch gore 5 is su stantially diamond-shape inform and is preferably cut froma knit m.)

it will be noted that when cutting the crotch gore as above stated, there will be no waste of material. This gore is designed particuthe long point or end 7 thereof being adapted to extend up the back of thegarment' while the shorter oint or end 8 will'extend; through the'crotc and up the-front, both points merging into the seams 9 and 10 at the rear andfront of the garment, as shown in Figures 1 and 3. The leg gores 6 are similarl cut from a knit tubing as indicated by the otted lines in Figure 8. These side or leg gores 6, when out from the tubing, will be substantially triangular in shape as shown in Figure 9. In the construction of the garment the side gores 6 are first stitched or secured to the short end of the crotch gore asshown in Figure 9, after which the assembled gores are incorporated M1 the garment and stitched to the leg sections 2and 3 as shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4. v

Another feature in the construction of this garment resides in the simplicity of' the seams and the simple manner in which the different parts of the garment may be stitched or sewed together. 1 It will be noted that there are no curved or irregular seams,

all seams being substantially straight, thereby greatly simplifying the construction of the garment. By the use of the novel gore construction above described, the garment when completed will have the requisite fullnessin the legs and seat to provide a smooth-.

fitting garment. Also by the use of the crotch gore 5 and leg gores 6, all strain will .be practically eliminated from the seams of the garment as the arrangement of the gores will provide the necessary flexibility to the garment and will absorb substantially all of the strain -=as particularly shown in Figures 2 and 4.

On .a heavier or stouter person, it may be desirable to vary the width of the leg gores and alsoto slightly change the design of the center gore 5 from that shown in Figure 9. The relative size of the gores for a standard size garment is illustrated in Figure 9 where one point of the crotch gore is shown of greater length than the other point. In Figure 10, there is shown a slightly modified construction wherein the center or crotch I gore 11 is substantially symmetrical in form;

.. same length. With this form of crotch gore,

that is, the tapered portions of the gore on each side of the center are of practically the sembled in the garment, will form a. portion of the lower .end of the leg section as indicated-b the dotted line 14 in Figure 4. The type 0 gore construction shown in Figure 10 is therefore of particular value in the use of a, garment designed for a stouter person as by its use .the side gores constitute substantially the GIItII'B" inner portion of each leg of the garment which is usuallysnbjected to the greatest amount of wear.

. This novel garment may also readily be reinforced by simply using two or more thicknesses of mater1al in the construction of the leg gores and also in the construction of the crotch gore, if desired, as this portion of the garment is usually subjected to the greatest amount of wear.

An undergarmcnt made in this way will allow perfect freedom of the limbs of the wearer withoutpulling of the seams of the garment, chafing the wearer or causing discomfort in any way, the smooth'lit of the crotch portion being plainly indicated in Figures 2, 3 and 4 where the garment is shown on a living model. The diamondshape crotch gore joining the wider. ends of the leg gores provides the proper and desired fullness at this point in the garment, allowing the wearer to-assume a Si-ooping, squatting or standing position with one leg elevated Without anyinconvenience or discomfort or pulling, orstraining of the garment. The symmetrical form of the gores allows for cutting them out of a fabric tube with practically no waste of material, thus efi'ecting considerable-economy in the manufacture of the garment. The fullness of the garment in the crotch is of course supplemented in allowing freedom of movement of the limbs of the wearer by the natural stretch of the knit fabric from. which the garment is made. The fabric though closely woven will yield when pull is applied thereto and allow the garment to be fitted smoothly,

and afford sufiicient stretch so that even under extreme strain theseams will not be opened or the fabric damaged or broken. By suitable variations in the width and relative arrangement of the crotch and leg g-ores, the garment can readily be adapted to fit a slender or stout person as desired.

I have shown the invention made up from knit tubing but do not confine myself to the use of such material, as in some cases a flat knit or woven fabric may be used.

I claim as my invention;

1. A womans undergarment .comprisin leg sections, a substantially diamond-shaped gore inserted into the crotch of the garment etween said leg sectionsand having its ed es united to the longitudinal edges ofthe fa rte composing the leg sections and extending through the crotch up into the front and back seams of the garment, and leg goresformed separately from said diamond- Inn she d gore and tapered in form having I their wider ends stitched to the opposite converging edges of one end of said crotch gore, and extending down the leg seams from said crotch gore and cooperating therewith to provide necessary crotch fullness.

2. A womans undergarment com rising leg SBCtlOIlS. composed of longitudinally divided tubular fabric, a substantially'diamond-shaped gore inserted into the crotch of the garment between said leg sections and having its edges united to the longitudinal edges of the fabric and extending through the crotch up into the front and back seams of the garment, the point of maximum Width of the gore being in the rear of the vertical axis of .the garment, andleg gores formed Separately from the diamond-shaped gores tapered inform having their wider ends to form a gore and attaching the gore thus formed in the crotch of the garment formed by the first two portions. 4. The method of forming womens bloomers which comprises cutting transversely .a long tubular portion of material, and splitting itlengthwiseon one side to form the legs of the garment. cutting a portion of material by straight transverse lines to form diamond-shaped and triangular portions, stitching the triangular portions to opposite edges of the diamond-shaped portions to form the crotch fullness and stitching the crotch to the leg portions to prov requisite fullness and complete the garment. 5. A womans undergarment comprising leg sections, a substantially diamondshaped gore inserted into the crotch of the garment between said leg sections and having one end extending up the front of the garment and the other up the back thereof between the leg seams. whereby the widestpoint of said gore will be adjacent the vertical axis of the garment, and substantially triangular leg gores formed in separate pieces from the diamond-shaped gore having their wider ends stitched to the opposite converging edges of one end of said crotch gore and extending down the opposite leg seams from said crotch gore and cooperating therewith to provide the requisite crotch fullness. 6. A womans' undergarment comprising leg sections. a gore tapered from a point near the middle thereof toward each end, one end being adapted to extend up the front. of the garment and the other up the back thereof between the leg seamswhereby the widest point of said gore will be adjacent the crotch. and leg gores tapered from one end toward the other and formed in separate pieces and having straight edges at one end adapted to fit and be secured to the opposite tapered edges of one end of said crotch gore and extending down the opposite lcg seams from said crotch gore and cooperating therewith to provide the requisite crotch fullness.

In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand this'6th day of October, 1924.

FRANKLIN CHATFIELD. 

